These are just a few notes I've put together on this species, it is not meant to be a caresheet or a formula for keeping them, just a few basic observations.

Hatchlings can be a bit problematic to start feeding so be careful where you buy from as picking up a bargain at one of the Euro shows doesn't always prove to be a bargain as they may not be established feeders. It generally takes me 3-4 months before they will take a whole pinkie unassisted, mostly they start on pinky heads as they have this aversion to swallowing large prey (whole pinks) at this size it appears. Some breeders have luck with offering them live fish, its thought that there diet at this age in the wild maybe amphibious (tadpoles). Anyways enough of there initial feeding difficulties, as once they start eating they are real piggies and will readily strike feed.

For hatchlings I keep them on kitchen roll ( don't use the super absorbent type, as it can lead to dehydration issues), a water bowl that is large enough for them to curl up in but not that big that when they do so they can't touch the sides, they like to have a daily soak and will often full submerge with there head on the bottom - they have an excellent feeding response when soaking if you slash the pinky on top of the water they errupt out of it and snap it and often retreat back under the water and eat it. A humid hide is also appreciated, and a light daily spray of the sides of the enclosure. Small dark dry hides, where they can feel secure should be offered too - Temperature wise your looking for a hot end of 28C (82F) and falling off to room temperature (74F), but not below 68F. I generally use heat mats or cable with the hatchlings.

Once they have outgrown there hatchling tub, they can be moved to a vivarium (or larger tub, I know several breeders who use racking system for them, but I much prefer a nice display vivarium, but thats my preference and they do equally well in a rack system) The viv I heat with a heat mat (under the viv not inside) this is set to give a hot spot on the floor of 28C/82F I then use an overhead lamp to give a basking spot of 84F which is directed on there branches, as they do love to climb (I've found that males are more showy than females and males will often bask out in the open, my females much prefer to hide away and are very rarely seen out, or if they are they soon shoot for cover when they spot you). Again the cooler side is 74F. Same principals as for the hatchlings, water bowl big enough to soak in - dry dark tight fitting hides - humid hide, branches for climbing - daily misting of the enclosure, I tend to mist the whole cage and not just the sides as adults as with the change of substrate from kitchen roll to sphagnum peat you don't end up with a soggyish mess. Food wise I offer them large mice two every 10 days (gravid females every 5-7 days), they have great appetites and it is easy to over feed them so be careful as I've seen fat rhinos and they are not pleasant to look at, and less likely to breed.

For sub adults I use exo terra cages and for adults the perfecto 3 foot vivs. You can keep pairs together, I haven't encountered any problems, just separate them for feeding - I know this is a controversial topic. Keeping two males together however is a big NO NO - they will fight and inflict some serious wounds on one another, there doesn't have to be a female in the vicinity for this to happen, they are very territorial

Temperament wise at all ages they are generally placid and don't attempt to bite, often they will use your finger (hatchling) or arm (adult) as a branch and perch, anchoring themselves with their prehensile tail.

One note - if kept in a cage without adequate ventilation and too much humidity they will get a skin condition where by the scales will turn white in patches and the skin underneath them with ooze a horrid yellow substance. This is treated by obviously changing husbandry and also treating with diluted iodine or chlorhexidine and keeping them in a more sterile enclosure until the next slough, when it usually disappears (if it doesn't then a vet trip is in order as anti-biotics may be needed). This condition has only been seen in adults so far.